Sunday, February 15, 2009

ADAM by Adam Lippes AW 09



Finally some color. ADAM is currently the best show I have seen this season, and with the Blondes not showing all bets are that this will be my top pick for AW09. Amazing range from sequins, to bright colors, to amazing cherry tree embroidery, to fanstastic coats – this show had everything you will need to keep you happy and warm next fall. The detailing on one of the coats almost looked like oysters laid out on the collar – not that you would need any help from aphrodisiacs if you were wearing anything from this collection. All of the color choices were very warm, including one amazing orange fur coat, a welcome break from the somber collections walking all over Bryant Park this week. It seems it is Adam Lippes’ time to shine. This grouping of great wearable pieces will warm your heart and your body.
















Saturday, February 14, 2009

Academy of Art University AW 09

The first pieces out were over worked and understyled. Talk about depressing clothes for the depression. Not much to say other than a general disconnect with the clothes. I understand it is a sad time, but why do we all have to look like we were hit by a tornado.

The second designer came out with an overly neutral palate of taupes and khakis - more focused on the textural and playing with linear patterns. Somewhat African inspired including one pseudo-zebra coat which was interestingly constructed. The see through fabric gave a sense of lightness while still appearing warm.

Hobo hats and loose garments. Whoever decided grunge was back needs to be shot. I am all for the age of recycling and whatnot, but I hope the green movement in fashion sticks to fabrics not style. These garments will be dressing a new generation of bag ladies. Though it was somewhat redeemed at the end with some interesting prints such as the faces print included here.





The group began to get a bit better with the menswear looks. Oversized outerwear but great sweaters underneath the knit coats. I love the pastel pink palate for winter - particularly how it plays off the soft greys. Pants are a miss generally in that their fit has yet to be perfected. It is almost as if the models are walking in their long-johns. Finally there is something for a long walk down the beach in the Hamptons in February.



The women's sweater dresses are a ray of hope after all the darkness the other womenswear designers before. Extremely interesting patters with great abstract prints over stipes. I personally love the stripes gloves - a sleek and chic accessory. Definitely clothes to keep the starving artist beauties warm next winter.



Saving the best for last apparently, the final collection was full of interesting prints. Very Japanese, these clothes look like nihonga paintings on wool. Incredibly simple, wearable, and beautiful. These pieces are for those well-heeled ladies who are still lunching and want a soft look to cushion the economic freefall.



Venexiana by Kati Stern AW 09

Can I ever say how much I love Kati Stern. What she does with Venexiana is eternally classy. Sparkle and sass reign supreme alongside her signature amazing use of fur. Additionally there was a great art deco inspiration in the sequin work. Big glittery girly bows abound throughout the collection. It would seem Kati wants us to reenter this depression with style and pretend it doesn't exist until it is over. The blue mink adds a great subtle color note with the silvers and blacks. Unlike many shows there was a great use of color in this collection. Khakis were offset with great plum fur and light pink accents, subtle olive and rose golds (including metallic pastels flower prints) added pop to the collection. Ladylike and strong these dresses are for the Teflon woman who doesn't get stuck in the economic quagmire. Simple, perfectly tailored, and with a Zen elegance these clothes are like a great Park Avenue apartment that has been Feng Shui-ed. Personally I am not so sure of the eyelet lace detailing on some of the fabrics - a rare misstep in over seventy looks. The white wedding dress at the end was to die for. Too bad there isn't an International Debutante Ball in 2009; I guess all the stylish young ladies out there will just have to tie the knot.
















Friday, February 13, 2009

Prabal Gurung - AW09

Starting fashion week off with some class, Prabal Gurung – former design director at Bill Blass – staged his inaugural showing with a presentation at the Flag Art Foundation in Chelsea. The rustic entrance via freight elevator belied the masterful tailoring and elegant simplicity of the clothes. Combinations of furs were beautifully mixed and will definitely keep their wearer warm through this economic winter. The sharp and architectural lines of his dresses are appropriate for all ages of sophisticated women. Sleek and eternal, these clothes will be a staple of galas, holiday parties, and fetes of all kinds next winter. The pared down palate of black, ivory, and khaki was recession friendly and punctuated with the right amount of red to give it life and drama. Prabal’s garments have a reminiscence of New York class, Parisian quality, and Moscow style. Every lady of distinction better get at least one staple piece from this collection while she still can.


Friday, January 30, 2009

SuperYacht Pre-release Viewing

The Young Shipping Professionals of New York (YSPNY) hosted a pre-release viewing of SuperYacht for prospective members at the landmark Soldiers’, Sailors’, Marines’, Coast Guard and Airmen’s Club. Attended by over 100 professionals in the marine shipping industry, this cocktail party was abuzz with conversations ranging from business to friendship. In such a global community, gatherings like this are a major part of how business gets done. One highlight of the event was the book SuperYacht from luxury publisher Gloria Books. The 620 page glossy was out for guests to peruse and pre-order one of the limited edition copies. In addition to the beautiful images inside the book, SuperYacht comes in an artfully designed lucite case whose cover has been sculpted to mimic the undulation of a wave. The first of many social and educational events for 2009, this is a good start to what looks to be an interesting year for shipping – and especially the YSPNY. “The greater New York area is teeming with young professionals working in all facets of the shipping industry,” said YSPNY President Sofia Vassilakis. “It’s exciting to be able to create a venue for our colleagues to get out of the office, come to our events and network, learn about the industry and most importantly, have a great time.”





YSPNY Board