Luca Luca AW 09

Simple classic and well tailored, these clothes are traditional Luca Luca. Hosting the show in the Plaza Hotel’s Palm Court, with an audience who looked like regulars, only seemed too fitting. The models looked as though they could have sat down at any of the tables and taken tea. A beautiful and restrained use of fur throughout the collection, I particularly loved the fox vest-dress. Colors were generally dark and deeply saturated – two of my favorite color choices were the deep teal and eggplant. Additionally, there was a nice subtle use of print with the iridescent multicolor fabric. Accessories were distractingly large and off-putting. Elegant, well made, and wearable without being breathtaking; these clothes will definitely sell - which is what you need in a recession... I guess.

Poleci AW 09

Guests were greeted by several of the best pieces at this in-store presentation. Two long Grecian column dresses with asymmetrical seaming were interesting but unfinished. The mannequin in the window had on the most stunning piece - a blue metallic fringe skirt with a black Grace Jones inspired jersey hoodie. The burnt gold overdress of tulle rosettes was intriguing but bulky. From there in the pieces became more un-wearable and unfinished. Some of the metal accents embroidered into the dresses weighed down the lightweight ground fabrics. This was most evident when the models would change pedestals. I found myself wondering if the presentation format was beneficial in not showing the hindrance of movement or if it was a mistake to allow guests to see the unfinished hems, buckling seams, and general sloppy finishing up close. Three standout pieces included a textured metallic silk skirt in silver, the same fabric top in gold, and a fur smock that was precariously held in the back by a large safety pin. As for accessories, a gorgeous indigo necklace looked almost like coral forming, or some moss from a magical forest. However, the other accessory pieces looked like last a bad grab bag from last season. The shoes were interesting although clearly uncomfortable. In all the show was almost as unbalanced as the hastily made asymmetrical garments.

ADAM by Adam Lippes AW 09

Finally some color. ADAM is currently the best show I have seen this season, and with the Blondes not showing all bets are that this will be my top pick for AW09. Amazing range from sequins, to bright colors, to amazing cherry tree embroidery, to fanstastic coats – this show had everything you will need to keep you happy and warm next fall. The detailing on one of the coats almost looked like oysters laid out on the collar – not that you would need any help from aphrodisiacs if you were wearing anything from this collection. All of the color choices were very warm, including one amazing orange fur coat, a welcome break from the somber collections walking all over Bryant Park this week. It seems it is Adam Lippes’ time to shine. This grouping of great wearable pieces will warm your heart and your body.

Venexiana by Kati Stern AW 09

Can I ever say how much I love Kati Stern. What she does with Venexiana is eternally classy. Sparkle and sass reign supreme alongside her signature amazing use of fur. Additionally there was a great art deco inspiration in the sequin work. Big glittery girly bows abound throughout the collection. It would seem Kati wants us to reenter this depression with style and pretend it doesn't exist until it is over. The blue mink adds a great subtle color note with the silvers and blacks. Unlike many shows there was a great use of color in this collection. Khakis were offset with great plum fur and light pink accents, subtle olive and rose golds (including metallic pastels flower prints) added pop to the collection. Ladylike and strong these dresses are for the Teflon woman who doesn't get stuck in the economic quagmire. Simple, perfectly tailored, and with a Zen elegance these clothes are like a great Park Avenue apartment that has been Feng Shui-ed. Personally I am not so sure of the eyelet lace detailing on some of the fabrics - a rare misstep in over seventy looks. The white wedding dress at the end was to die for. Too bad there isn't an International Debutante Ball in 2009; I guess all the stylish young ladies out there will just have to tie the knot.

Prabal Gurung - AW09

Starting fashion week off with some class, Prabal Gurung – former design director at Bill Blass – staged his inaugural showing with a presentation at the Flag Art Foundation in Chelsea. The rustic entrance via freight elevator belied the masterful tailoring and elegant simplicity of the clothes. Combinations of furs were beautifully mixed and will definitely keep their wearer warm through this economic winter. The sharp and architectural lines of his dresses are appropriate for all ages of sophisticated women. Sleek and eternal, these clothes will be a staple of galas, holiday parties, and fetes of all kinds next winter. The pared down palate of black, ivory, and khaki was recession friendly and punctuated with the right amount of red to give it life and drama. Prabal’s garments have a reminiscence of New York class, Parisian quality, and Moscow style. Every lady of distinction better get at least one staple piece from this collection while she still can.