Luca Luca AW 09

Simple classic and well tailored, these clothes are traditional Luca Luca. Hosting the show in the Plaza Hotel’s Palm Court, with an audience who looked like regulars, only seemed too fitting. The models looked as though they could have sat down at any of the tables and taken tea. A beautiful and restrained use of fur throughout the collection, I particularly loved the fox vest-dress. Colors were generally dark and deeply saturated – two of my favorite color choices were the deep teal and eggplant. Additionally, there was a nice subtle use of print with the iridescent multicolor fabric. Accessories were distractingly large and off-putting. Elegant, well made, and wearable without being breathtaking; these clothes will definitely sell - which is what you need in a recession... I guess.

Poleci AW 09

Guests were greeted by several of the best pieces at this in-store presentation. Two long Grecian column dresses with asymmetrical seaming were interesting but unfinished. The mannequin in the window had on the most stunning piece - a blue metallic fringe skirt with a black Grace Jones inspired jersey hoodie. The burnt gold overdress of tulle rosettes was intriguing but bulky. From there in the pieces became more un-wearable and unfinished. Some of the metal accents embroidered into the dresses weighed down the lightweight ground fabrics. This was most evident when the models would change pedestals. I found myself wondering if the presentation format was beneficial in not showing the hindrance of movement or if it was a mistake to allow guests to see the unfinished hems, buckling seams, and general sloppy finishing up close. Three standout pieces included a textured metallic silk skirt in silver, the same fabric top in gold, and a fur smock that was precariously held in the back by a large safety pin. As for accessories, a gorgeous indigo necklace looked almost like coral forming, or some moss from a magical forest. However, the other accessory pieces looked like last a bad grab bag from last season. The shoes were interesting although clearly uncomfortable. In all the show was almost as unbalanced as the hastily made asymmetrical garments.

ADAM by Adam Lippes AW 09

Finally some color. ADAM is currently the best show I have seen this season, and with the Blondes not showing all bets are that this will be my top pick for AW09. Amazing range from sequins, to bright colors, to amazing cherry tree embroidery, to fanstastic coats – this show had everything you will need to keep you happy and warm next fall. The detailing on one of the coats almost looked like oysters laid out on the collar – not that you would need any help from aphrodisiacs if you were wearing anything from this collection. All of the color choices were very warm, including one amazing orange fur coat, a welcome break from the somber collections walking all over Bryant Park this week. It seems it is Adam Lippes’ time to shine. This grouping of great wearable pieces will warm your heart and your body.

Academy of Art University AW 09

The first pieces out were over worked and understyled. Talk about depressing clothes for the depression. Not much to say other than a general disconnect with the clothes. I understand it is a sad time, but why do we all have to look like we were hit by a tornado.

The second designer came out with an overly neutral palate of taupes and khakis - more focused on the textural and playing with linear patterns. Somewhat African inspired including one pseudo-zebra coat which was interestingly constructed. The see through fabric gave a sense of lightness while still appearing warm.

Hobo hats and loose garments. Whoever decided grunge was back needs to be shot. I am all for the age of recycling and whatnot, but I hope the green movement in fashion sticks to fabrics not style. These garments will be dressing a new generation of bag ladies. Though it was somewhat redeemed at the end with some interesting prints such as the faces print included here.

The group began to get a bit better with the menswear looks. Oversized outerwear but great sweaters underneath the knit coats. I love the pastel pink palate for winter - particularly how it plays off the soft greys. Pants are a miss generally in that their fit has yet to be perfected. It is almost as if the models are walking in their long-johns. Finally there is something for a long walk down the beach in the Hamptons in February.

The women's sweater dresses are a ray of hope after all the darkness the other womenswear designers before. Extremely interesting patters with great abstract prints over stipes. I personally love the stripes gloves - a sleek and chic accessory. Definitely clothes to keep the starving artist beauties warm next winter.

Saving the best for last apparently, the final collection was full of interesting prints. Very Japanese, these clothes look like nihonga paintings on wool. Incredibly simple, wearable, and beautiful. These pieces are for those well-heeled ladies who are still lunching and want a soft look to cushion the economic freefall.

Venexiana by Kati Stern AW 09

Can I ever say how much I love Kati Stern. What she does with Venexiana is eternally classy. Sparkle and sass reign supreme alongside her signature amazing use of fur. Additionally there was a great art deco inspiration in the sequin work. Big glittery girly bows abound throughout the collection. It would seem Kati wants us to reenter this depression with style and pretend it doesn't exist until it is over. The blue mink adds a great subtle color note with the silvers and blacks. Unlike many shows there was a great use of color in this collection. Khakis were offset with great plum fur and light pink accents, subtle olive and rose golds (including metallic pastels flower prints) added pop to the collection. Ladylike and strong these dresses are for the Teflon woman who doesn't get stuck in the economic quagmire. Simple, perfectly tailored, and with a Zen elegance these clothes are like a great Park Avenue apartment that has been Feng Shui-ed. Personally I am not so sure of the eyelet lace detailing on some of the fabrics - a rare misstep in over seventy looks. The white wedding dress at the end was to die for. Too bad there isn't an International Debutante Ball in 2009; I guess all the stylish young ladies out there will just have to tie the knot.