Saturday, February 14, 2009

Academy of Art University AW 09

The first pieces out were over worked and understyled. Talk about depressing clothes for the depression. Not much to say other than a general disconnect with the clothes. I understand it is a sad time, but why do we all have to look like we were hit by a tornado.

The second designer came out with an overly neutral palate of taupes and khakis - more focused on the textural and playing with linear patterns. Somewhat African inspired including one pseudo-zebra coat which was interestingly constructed. The see through fabric gave a sense of lightness while still appearing warm.

Hobo hats and loose garments. Whoever decided grunge was back needs to be shot. I am all for the age of recycling and whatnot, but I hope the green movement in fashion sticks to fabrics not style. These garments will be dressing a new generation of bag ladies. Though it was somewhat redeemed at the end with some interesting prints such as the faces print included here.





The group began to get a bit better with the menswear looks. Oversized outerwear but great sweaters underneath the knit coats. I love the pastel pink palate for winter - particularly how it plays off the soft greys. Pants are a miss generally in that their fit has yet to be perfected. It is almost as if the models are walking in their long-johns. Finally there is something for a long walk down the beach in the Hamptons in February.



The women's sweater dresses are a ray of hope after all the darkness the other womenswear designers before. Extremely interesting patters with great abstract prints over stipes. I personally love the stripes gloves - a sleek and chic accessory. Definitely clothes to keep the starving artist beauties warm next winter.



Saving the best for last apparently, the final collection was full of interesting prints. Very Japanese, these clothes look like nihonga paintings on wool. Incredibly simple, wearable, and beautiful. These pieces are for those well-heeled ladies who are still lunching and want a soft look to cushion the economic freefall.



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