Friday, August 12, 2011

Grupo 134 - Spring 2011



The hipster vibe meets an old English (as in England... not the malt liquor) feel - including an older bearded man who is either famous or they were really trying to push the bum aesthetic further than anyone in Williamsburg is willing to. The clothes were in a muted palette of tan, cream, white, grey, and black. The stylistic choice of a bowler hat is not my favorite; especially as it has been repeated on every single model. There is a good use of layering, even if the clothes look worn out, although the guys look bored and dirty more than anything. The ladies come out in a similar aesthetic but here it seems to have some direction. Light weight fabrics flounce down the runway and the girls look ready to hit the street in the summer heat. My personal favorite look is a cream silk jumper with short-shorts in a dark polka dot. And unlike their gentlemen counterparts, we are seeing a bit of color on the ladies, with coral colored tops and accents.

Another older man comes out and walks the runway for good measure (this one is shaven and more rocker-chic) then the fashion is amped up! The mens and women's clothes are both sleeker and, at least for the boys, chicer. It seems that now we have gone from day to night- where the proportion of black in the ensembles makes a bit more sense, even if it is supposed to be spring. I am sure that it doesn't hurt that it seems like they have saved their better looking (and better walking) models for this section of the show - since apparently quickchanges weren't an option. the dark black outfits on the ladies are brightened up with white stripes to add a nautical yet dramatic feel to them.

The video art piece projected throughout the show was very well thought out and well tied into the show; that is, until the unfortunate Greenpeace ad at the end. Stupidly and unnecessarily politicizing, it almost makes me dislike the whole collection even though there were a few worthwhile garments.




Thursday, August 11, 2011

Vicki Otero - Spring 2011


The opening look combined with the harp music gave a very Victorian / Alice in Wonderland doll feel, which quickly jumped back and forth with a sort of retro-modern style. Dark color palette of blacks and greys with heavier looking fabric than you might expect from a Spring/Summer collection was combined with platform with platform shoes so hideous you would almost think they are orthopedic...

The first white garments are (not) surprisingly unfresh - with a bib detail that is at one moment baby doll and the next sailor boy. Finally we get some plausible spring dresses, but even when they are flouncy they feel too heavy in grey and dark blue hues. The color suddenly shifts to include a bright lipstick red with black - seemingly coming out of nowhere and then disappearing back into nothing - which I think is where it belongs. A white cowl-back top paired with a black skirt followed by a white overcoat and great scarf tied in a bow (in black of course) try to salvage the collection at the end. The show finishes as we see a tango singer come out to stand off the last model like a matador with a bull.

Other than the last two looks the white Alice in Wonderland dress on the harpist and the all white linen suit on the singer my be the best outfits in the show. I can only hope that they were also made by Vicki Otero. In the end, the only thing heavier than the fabrics pleated and folded upon the models is their makeup - a fuchsia eye with accented heavy eyebrows definitely read spring (if you are Frida Kahlo).









Evangelina Bomparola - Spring 2011


The show opened strong with an elegantly tailored tangerine jumpsuit, followed by multi-colored graphic and geometric pieces in an ivory, camel, and tangerine palette. She is clearly drawing inspiration from the late 70s and early 80s. At times this was in a very modern way like her shift dresses, which are simultaneously architectural and structureless - in the best possible way. While at others very literal, as with the odd pair of bellbottoms included in the collection. The color palette expands to include exuberant accents of magenta and canary as well.

Her high waisted short-shorts will definitely give girls a reason to hit the elliptical before spring gets here. A series of canary dresses bring some pop back into the collection while highlighting the aforementioned architecturality of the collection as they float down the runway. Stunning gold zipper details are highlighted bu the black trim surrounding them - really making this detail stand out on these otherwise bright and weightless garments. The Mondrian inspired clothes are perfect for a cocktail or a gala event, whether you are supporting the MALBA or the MOMA. Truly a modern sensibility for dressing women, Evangelina has managed to pull some of the best elements from the past and drag them into the present.

Unfortunately, as a series of gorgeous ivory dresses with magenta accents came out the musicians either ran out of things to play or encountered technical difficulties, distracting from the show - always something to think about when you choose to use live musicians in a show. The cacophony of noise started up again- now sounding more like a siren than music - just as the last model stepped off the runway. Such a tragic way to end an otherwise splendid show...





Wednesday, August 10, 2011

Buenos Aires Fashion Week





The stage was set for my first South American fashion show. Other than the setup for a live band on the runway and ads playing from jumbotrons before the show - this seemed just like any other runway event. It is quite remarkable how fashion people all seem to look the same, no matter where you are in the world. And of course, there was the requisite amount of pushing, herding, and standing in line. The main salon (much larger in size than the two runway salons combined) feels more like one of the trade shows La Rural is famous for hosting, than anything I have seen in New York. This led to the event feeling somewhat smaller market, not dissimilar to the up and coming Philly Fashion Week (which I was ever so lucky to model at once upon a time...) Perhaps a trip to Brasil is in order to see if this is just how things are done in South America. Also Interesting is how centralized everything is - with all of the PR seemingly handled by through the fashionweek organization rather than individual PR firms, and without upstart rival shows happening all around town.






Stay tuned for the resulting articles...




Articles are now up for:

Cora Groppo
Evangelina Bomparola
Grupo 134
Hermanos Estebecorena
Maria Vazquez
Varanasi
Vicki Otero



Monday, August 8, 2011

ANATOMIE - Shopping at The Hampton Classic


ANATOMIE was founded by Shawn and Kate Boyer, a power couple with both fitness and fashion backgrounds, who have also designed collections for Elite Models, Fashion Sport, Cigarette Offshore Racing and Lamborghini. Featuring French and Italian fabrics and tailoring, these clothes are perfect for the woman on the go. Shawn and Kate describe their creations as "sophisticated and sexy, just like the women who wear them."

ANATOMIE is poised to be the tupperware of sportswear. You don't have to wait for a trunk show near you, or even run out to your local boutique, since ANATOMIE will do in home shopping parties for you and your friends...

Thursday, August 4, 2011

Timo! Wallets x Not a Gallery




Headed out to the Hamptons this weekend? If you aren't you should be - to check out the launch of Timo! Wallets x Not a Gallery, a new collaboration between digital artist Justin Belmont and fashion designer Timo Weiland. The event will take place at the summer location of NOT A GALLERY at TENET: 91 Main Street, Southampton, NY with complementary cocktails from 6-8 pm. You won't need your wallet for your drinks at this event, but you can definitely pick up an awesome new one.

Wednesday, August 3, 2011

BMW Guggenheim Lab Launches in NYC





BMW Guggenheim Lab to Launch in New York in August 2011 See the project at http://www.bmwguggenheimlab.org/index.php?option=com_mediastorm&view=videos&task=view&id=3

Focusing on Comfort in the City, the BMW Guggenheim Lab has launched its first of nine projects today on the border zone between the East Village and the LES. This community forum space will travel to Europe and Asia before returning to the Guggenheim Museum where the information gathered will be presented. Over the Lab’s six-year migration, there will be three distinct mobile structures and thematic cycles. Each structure will be designed by a different architect, and each will travel to three cities around the globe. The structure is open Wednesday through Sunday from 1-9 pm (with extended hours of 10am - 10pm on weekends). Looks like the East Side has found its answer to the highline... but only until October 16th!

Tuesday, August 2, 2011

Severin's Pop-Up Shop, Party, & Presentation




Brenna Wallace's new line Severin is having it's first presentation and party on Wednesday, August 10th from 7-10 pm. The event will take place at the LES's one stop art, fashion, and music wateringhole - Gallery Bar (120 Orchard St). Severin, founded in 2010, is a contemporary womenswear collection that is minimalistic in body, rock & roll at heart, and aims for comfort and quality in its soul. Enjoy the mid-week drinks and beats while picking up some hot new Severin designs. Open bar from 7-8 pm, contact info@severinnyc.com to RSVP!







Monday, August 1, 2011

CFDA New Members Announced


Congratulations to friends Christian Cota, Luis Fernandez, and Prabal Gurung on their new membership to the CFDA. This honor is certainly well deserved and not unexpected. We, as always, look forward to seeing what comes next for you all - and now it appears that the rest of the fashion world will be watching too!

To read more about them and the 30 other new CFDA members check out the link below:

http://www.cfda.com/the-council-of-fashion-designers-of-america-welcomes-33-new-members/






Christian Cota



Prabal Gurung







Luis Fernandez of Number:Lab




Friday, July 29, 2011

Eva & Bernard may be coming to a store near you...



After a hot summer like this has been, these slinky and airy designs from Eva & Bernard would definitely be a sartorial relief. The brand's trajectory has been almost as hot as the weather outside - since its launch in 2009, Eva & Bernard has been carried in stores throughout Germany and Italy and were recently named “Ones to Watch” by WWD in correlation with Berlin Fashion Week 2011. Whether you are headed to a beach vacation, or just spending the weekend pretending you are already on one, the relaxed elegance of these garments will help you feel cooler than a beach breeze. With Eva & Bernard, their "easy tailoring" aesthetic doesn't mean that they aren't paying attention to the details - these Italian-made garments come in a range of the finest cottons, silks, linen, and cashmere. Currently they are only sold in Europe but with stockist meetings next month in NYC, hopefully they will be coming to a boutique near you soon!

Check out their Berlin Fashion Lineup for the Full Collection